Thursday, 17 July 2025

Chapter 11 - Coral Coast

Day 51 - Friday 18 July 2025 – North to Carnarvon - 230 km

We were up early and smiled at the cars coming out of Shark Bay that were being stopped by Fisheries Inspectors.

It was a lovely start to the day as we smartly drove the 200 km to Carnarvon, with a tail wind. Maybe 8 or 9 wedge tailed eagles were spotted as we headed north - none being captured by my camera. During the morning we ticked over 9000 km for the trip - and we are nearly half way.

The day just got better as we moved along, getting to a top around 22 degrees.

Some of the road to Carnarvon

The "I" had a great spot to park and provided water for the caravan. We had our biggest shop of the trip at Woolworths (no fruit or veggies) before embarking on the 'food trail' - a series of road side stops and shops that sold local produce. We bought fresh tomatoes (2 types), zucchini, corn, bananas, avocado, beans, capcisum (2 colours), cucumber, oranges & broccoli. The prices and the freshness were amazing.

Somehow we weakened and we also tried a chocolate coated banana and a mango smoothie.

Our fruit for the day - Banana & Mango

Somewhere in there we also visited the cactus garden - a prickly encounter.

The Cactus garden


As we wanted to go to the Saturday market we camped locally. We were well off the road and nowhere near a train line so we settled in for a quiet night - until we realised that we were in the flight path for the Carnarvon airport.

A flock of corellas occupied the tree beside the caravan.

With our new supply of veggies I cooked up some veggie patties for dinner. They were OK.



Day 52 - Saturday 19 July 2025 – Carnarvon to Coral Bay - 242 km

We slept in but were on the road by 9 am - to check out the local Saturday market. It was less than impressive but we bought some Pink Lady's and tomato chutney. A quick visit to Woolworths - for carrots & mandarins - and we were on our way.

The road to Coral Bay had two sections, 110 km of highway No 1 and 120 km of the offshoot into Coral Bay. The first section - which ran between two sand-dunes - was like the Hume Highway just outside Melbourne at the end of the Easter break. The camping-style holiday makers dominated the road - being the second last day of the WA school holidays. Caravans, campers, trailers with camping gear, cars with roof top stuff, surfboards, big boats, little boats, tinneys, bikes. You name it - we saw it. It was amazing.

Along the trip we saw a handful of birds and no other animals. It is barren land. We also crossed the 'Tropic of Capricorn' and moved into the tropics.

It took a while to get this photo

We arrived at our '2025 bucket list' item - Coral Bay - around 1pm. It was about 23 degrees and we had a roadside site - so as close to the beach as anyone else in the large park.

Some setup was achieved - then lunch - then the rest of the setup. Then some relaxation.

Then a 2 km walk on the superb beach. Really great memories returned from 2011 and 2019. [Beach 43, Walks 42]


A school of around six fish swam maybe three metres from me. They were nearly the length of my arm.

Fish in crystal clear water
 
Back at camp we chilled out and listened to the antics of a family - with three young boys - set up their camp beside us.

We were so relaxed that I was too lazy to walk the 200 metres to get an excellent sunset photo - but I did get the following photo from the caravan.


Shirley was kind enough to let me cook outdoors (outdoors for the first time this trip). The meal consisted of chicken and a selection of Carnarvon veggies.


Day 53 - Sunday 20 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

A slow start, an excellent shower from bore water naturally hot, then a BBQ bacon & egg breakfast. Lots of noise from happy kids filled the air. Mums and Dads seemed a bit slow.

Exercises were next, a necessary evil part of our life. 😇

After a relaxing morning and lunch we went for another walk on what is probably my favourite beach in Australia. More paddling, more fish, more sun. [Beach 43, Walks 43]



A magic part of Australia

Although it had been a sunny day a front coming in from the west threatened my chance at a sunset photo. The following two photos came from my patience in the beach.

Sunset photos from the same spot at the same time
Above - Zoom photo to get the boat
Below - Distant photo



Day 54 - Monday 21 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

A heavy shower of overnight rain and strong winds reduced to strong wind by the time we started the day.

We went for a short drive to 'Monck Head' and had a stroll on the superb, albeit small, beach. The wonderful colours of the water are something hard to capture with my camera. So I captured some fish, some crabs and a White Faced Heron.


Beach at Monck Head [Beach 44, Walks 44]


White Faced Heron

School of small fish

Crabs about the size of my hand

After lunch and some reading it was time for our afternoon walk. Being low tide we were able to go further and enjoy more beach. [Beach 44, Walks 45]


Note the three colours of the water - that align with the depth

Fish near our legs

Just to be different, for dinner we had a home made pizza with venison salami a feature. Everyone involved (two of us) thought it was pretty good.


Day 55 - Tuesday 22 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

Another sunny start to the day. Exercises. Book reading. Coffee. Relaxation.

After lunch we had a 3 km beach walk taking a slightly different route via a sand-dune to get two photos. [Beach 44, Walks 46]

The colours we see every day.
From the bottom, sand, shallows, middle depth, deeper/coral/seaweed.
Top of very dark blue - waves crashing over Ningaloo reef

Our favourite beach, looking back towards the town - from the sand-dune

Around 4pm the piece of lamb and some roasting veggies were added to the Weber.

Around 5:50 I had to decide between a great sunset photo or a great lamb roast meal. The latter won, but I got photos of both.

Lamb Roast - Weber Style

Just after sunset and just prior to lamb roast


Day 56 - Wednesday 23 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

Another slow start. Egg cooked on BBQ for breakfast. House work. Morning walk on the beach as a big 'front' comes in from the west. [Beach 44, Walks 47]

Maybe some rain later today

Thanks to the excellent bakery over the road we had a fresh salad roll for lunch, followed by a Carnarvon banana. Did you know that bananas are grown in WA?

After lunch we had our afternoon beach walk - again 3 km. [Beach 44, Walks 48] The clouds were getting darker each hour, and ruined any chance of a sunset photo.

Pork chop on the BBQ for dinner before the pitter patter started on the roof.


Day 57 - Thursday 24 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

The focus of the start of our ninth week was wind and intermittent rain - and our desire to avoid both. Little was achieved before lunch.

The rain cleared around lunch time and I decided that we needed a beach walk. We turned right, instead of left, and found a new beach that worked out to be a 'shark nursery'.  The bay we found is a popular spot for certain sharks to court, mate, maybe give birth and provide a nursery for the young (until they are OK to leave home).

The surrounding beach was impressive, although the gale winds did not allow us to appreciate it fully. 

'Shark Nursery' (Nhuga Malinmayi) Beach [Beach 45, Walks 49]

We returned to base and were happy to get out of the wind. I cooked a lamb stew for dinner.


Day 58 - Friday 25 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

The start of our last full day in Coral Bay (maybe ever) started sunny with a cool breeze. Shirley headed to the hairdresser, who also has other jobs in Coral Bay. I did a few pack-up jobs in readiness for any early departure tomorrow. Yes, Shirley knows.

A couple of fresh bakery rolls became lunch before we headed to the beach for our last enjoyable walk at Coral Bay. Without exaggeration we probably saw 1000+ fish. My board shorts got only partially wet. The temperature was around 19 degrees. Another tourist took our photo. [Beach 45, Walks 50]

Close to the end of a great relaxing week

We chose to have dinner for our last evening at ‘Bill’s’ – a pub about 250 metres from our caravan. My choice for dinner was chilli mussels, photo provided. Note the fresh bread roll beside the bowl of mussels. The bowl came with a lid that served to hold the discarded shells. There is no doubt in my mind that the mussels were as good as I have ever had. 

Chilli Mussels at Bill's

Day 59 – Saturday 26 July – Coral Bay to Cape Range NP – 316 km

Shirley was in the shower before the sun peeked over the trees, but she did not know that until I TOLD HER later. We were on the road at 8:05 am, saying goodbye to another great time at Coral Bay. Just under two hours later we were in Exmouth. Not long after that we were checking in to Yardi Homestead Caravan Park – a place in the middle of nowhere with around 200 sites. Power is limited and water was scarce, but it was home for a night – and a great place to camp.

Camp was quickly established and we departed south into Cape Range National Park. As we only had one night here we skipped the scenic walks and focussed on the beach walks. We were definitely in the land of termite mounds, many much higher than our car.

A termite mound with character, maybe 3 metres high

Our first stop was ‘Lakeside Beach’, another lovely Ningaloo Beach. [Beach 46, Walks 51]

Lakeside Beach, Cape Range NP

Next stop was Turquoise Bay, allegedly one of the best beaches in Australia. We did not argue. [Beach 47, Walks 52]

Turquoise Bay Beach, Cape Range NP

After a quick sandwich lunch we moved further south to ‘Oyster Stacks’, so called because of the oysters on top of rock piers/stacks jutting out of the water. No beach here to talk about.

Above - Oysters Stacks Beach and Oyster Stacks
Below - A glum looking resident

Our fourth stop was ‘ Sandy Beach’ and a spot that that we would put in front of Turquoise Bay – probably our best beach of the trip so far (without taking anything away from Coral Bay). The water colours were exquisite. [Beach 48, Walks 53]

Sandy Beach, Cape Range NP

We then stopped at ‘Osprey Bay’ as turtles were allegedly able to be seen. Not so today. It was popular for nearby national park campers. Dolphins and a turtle had been seen earlier.

A small beach at Osprey Bay, Cape Range NP
Popular as there was a nearby camp site

We turned around at Yardi Creek and headed back to base. On the way back we stopped at Tantabiddi and found another excellent beach. [Beach 49, Walks 54]

Tantabiddi Beach, Cape Range NP

Back at camp we had a coffee and a walk around the huge park. 240 v power is generated here and drinking water is provided from an on-site reverse-osmosis desalination plant – both are expensive processes.

Live music drifted through the park as we had own Happy Hour. It had been a long day.

 

Day 60 – Sunday 27 July – Cape Range NP into the Pilbara – 372 km

We were woken early by a mischievous phone call on Shirley’s phone. So up we got and departed soon after 8:15 am.

Our first stop was the wreck of the SS Mildura that ran aground in 1907. There was no loss of human life but many cattle on board could not be saved.

Very close to the wreck we checked out ‘Surfers Beach’. It was rocky but great waves were rolling in. [Beach 50, Walks 55]

Surfers Beach, Exmouth

Then some housekeeping stuff in Exmouth and a photo of the big prawn. Shirley found a market so we bought tomatoes, apples & bananas. Photos of plants were frequently taken all day, plus a painted tank just outside Exmouth. We also stopped to get our first photo of the trip of a Sturt Desert Pea – an amazing flower.

Does it need a label?

Swainsona formosa, commonly known as Sturt's desert pea or Sturt pea

It was time for morning tea by the time we stopped at Pebble Beach just 50 km in 100 minutes. [Beach 51, Walks 56] 

Pebble Beach & Pebbles

A Finch posed for me. 

Maybe a 'Beautiful Fantail'

Then we stopped to check out a memorial to the Navy efforts in WW2.

Around 150 km after leaving Exmouth we turned left/east and a strong cross/head wind became a tail wind.

We were now in the Pilbara – red dirt/iron country. It was amazing how the landscape changed as we turned east. The sandy landscape became red dirt/iron country. We started to regularly cross sand-dunes – maybe the height of four to seven twin-cab utes.

Our chosen stop for the night was booked out so we drove another 44 km and stopped on the corner of the Onslow turnoff – with two other Victorian caravans. All indications were that the temperature was around 24/25 degrees. The wind was howling across the plains from the west. Hopefully a tail wind tomorrow.

The sunset was really good, as was the roast lamb for dinner.



*** This chapter is now complete - as at 9 am on Thursday 31 July***

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