Wrap Up

Trip Maps, Summary and Wrap-Up:

Route Map....

Above - Approximate Trip Route
Below - Approximate flight path on Lake Eyre trip
(Landing at William Creek & Painted Hills)

Highlights:

• We had 79 walks on 57 beaches. 

• The Lake Eyre & Painted Desert/Hills flight was something special.
• Broome, Coral Bay, Kalbarri and Eighty Mile Beach refreshed old memories and created new memories.
  
• The bottom of WA - particularly the big timber country - was a special highlight.
  
• The mural on Wellington Dam surpassed expectations, and the Mandurah Giants were an unexpected gem.
• Gnomesville was a quirky place.
• We again saw an enormous amount of art in metal and murals and silos and other formats. We did not love it all, but most of it was appreciated for what it was, and the effort involved.
  
• We caught up with family in Darwin and friends in Broome. Both were great.
  
• We had a hell of a lot of fun, while seeing some of the great parts of our great country.

Trip Summary and Wrap-Up:

• We were away for 108 nights and 109 days, just over 15 weeks. 
  Last year it was 97 nights and 98 days.

• We travelled 18006 km, around 165 per day.
  Last year we did 10300 km an average of 105 per day.

• We used around 2600 litres of diesel at an average cost of $2.01.
  Last year the average cost of 1340 litres was $1.88. 

• The range of prices was $1.66 to $2.88 per litre.
  Last year it was $1.63 to $2.10 per litre

• We stopped at 51 venues - at an average cost of $37.45 per day. 30 of those stops were for one night - which means that we were probably in transit from one spot to another.
  Last year it was 30 venues and an average of $43.80. 

• We had less campfires and campfire dinners than last year, an indication of the poorer weather.

• Our mishaps were minor and did not define our holiday.

Disappointments:

The disregard for road laws seems be getting worse, particularly passing on double lines. We had a Greyhound bus pass us on double lines when I was sitting just under 100 km/hr.

Western Australia roads were superb. The rest were second rate.

I hope you enjoyed the journey. if you have maybe ring someone who is overdue for a phone call, or give someone deserving a hug, or grab a glass of your favourite drink and ponder how big and how great this country is.

Retirement Winter Trip Summary:

• In the period 2015 to 2025 we have had 14 significant Aussie trips.

• We have travelled just over 160,000 km.
• We have been away for 1135 days, or just over 3 years.
• Over that time we have averaged around 140 km per day.
• The $ would scare you so I have left them out.
• We have not yet seen everything.

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Chapter 16 - Cobber Pedy & Lake Eyre & Home

Day 104 – Tuesday 9 September – Coober Pedy

We are out of the tropics and subject to the cool changes that occur this far south. Today was to be our first day with a maximum below 30 for some weeks. Strong wind was also around for most of the day.

I started the day, after breakfast etc, with a few car cleaning tasks. I then helped a 'damsel in distress' who had a caravan door latch that would not lock. I did not fix the lock, but I showed her how to jam the door and feel safe overnight. 

A common scene in Opal-mad Coober Pedy

It was a quiet day, to precede the hectic 4-6 day finale to our trip.

We found the highest point in Coober Pedy and took a couple of evening photos.

Just before sunset
Above - Looking West over Coober Pedy
Below - Looking East over Coober Pedy

Day 105 – Wednesday 10 September – Lake Eyre & Painted Hills

Today we knocked off a high priority item - a flight over Lake Eyre and a visit to the Painted Hills. A wonderful day that involved around 300 photos, later culled to 152.

It was around 9 degrees as we arrived at the Coober Pedy airport at 7:30 am. Shirley was nearly awake.

We were greeted by Abigail (Abbie) our young and lovely pilot. We were allocated our seats and I was the co-pilot. Shirley sat behind me and in front of a lady who got rid of her breakfast before lunch and her lunch before we got home.

Abbie was wonderful. Calm and reassuring as the tiny plane bounced around she gave a constant dialogue of where we were, what happens there, and what is to come. As we were travelling over water over two metres deep we had to wear life jackets until we stopped at William Creek. We wore noise cancelling headphones.

Abbie explained how the Diamantina and Georgina Rivers feed the Warburton River, which flows southwest and discharges into the eastern side of Lake Eyre. It is one of the state's largest rivers, and is part of the Lake Eyre Basin. It runs along the eastern side of the Simpson Desert, and drains water from Eyre Creek, the Diamantina and Georgina rivers from Goyder Lagoon, carrying it into Lake Eyre during its infrequent floods. The Cooper Creek also provides water in high rainfall years - which is this year. It also provided a stack of Yellow Perch.

We followed the winding Warburton for a fair way.

Abbie explained how Lake Eyre has a mere four metre fall along its 140 km, north to south. This means that strong winds can control where the water moves to. A strong westerly will move the water to the east.

The Lake Eyre we visited today has most of its water in the southern section, as the inflow has reduced and the south is lower than the north. 

We landed at William Creek for a late morning snack and walked around the town in five minutes. We flew with WrightAir whose owner also owns the William Creek pub and all five houses in town, plus the caravan park. The WrightAir company owns 15 planes and is based in William Creek.

After leaving William Creek we flew to the Painted Hills and landed at an airstrip built by WrightAir. The Painted Hills (also called the 'Painted Desert') scenery and geology was breathtaking - it was truly magnificent. The Painted Hills/Desert is around 30 km long and up to 18 km wide.

We departed just after 8 am and returned around 2:30 pm.

Click here to see the photos from Coober Pedy via Lake Eyre to William Creek.

Click here to see the photos of the Painted Desert/Hills.

Please note that the photos from the air were taken at heights between 500 feet and 3500 feet in a rocking plane. The dark blotches on many of the photos indicate the clouds above us. A couple of the photos show a propeller from the plane.

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Tomorrow we start the 1600 km journey home, so our adventure is drawing to a close. However we will travel slow enough to 'smell the roses and spot any gems'.

Day 106 – Thursday 11 September – Trip Home Day 1 - 500 km

With a full load of water and diesel (and an empty toilet) we set sail for home. The wind was gusty all day but manageable.

It was an excellent road nearly all day. The magnificent outback scenery was constantly changing. There were a lot of fluffy clouds.

We travelled over a section of the highway that also doubled as an emergency landing strip for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

Salt lakes were a big feature of the day. Lake Hart was the first, popular in the 1930’s as a great source of salt. We had to cross the Ghan train line to walk on the surface of the lake. Shirley tells me the salt was extra salty.

Left - Ghan line south
Right - Ghan line north

Above - Shirley pondering train tracks in the salt lake surface
Below - Another view of Lake Hart

The following sign was in a rest area beside the lake. We saw a number of similar signs related to indigenous people of that particular area.

KOKATHU – ONE PEOPLE, ONE COUNTRY, ONE DREAMING

There was plenty of animal life to be seen. One dingo, five emus, some cattle, lots of shaggy sheep some with lambs, lotsa roadkill (cattle & roos), two wedge-tailed eagles, dozens of crows, lotsa goats.

Due to poor signage in South Australia we missed a couple of our preferred free camps and ended up being 30 km north of Port Augusta – 500 km for the day. We camped 100 metres east of the Stuart Highway and 200 metres west of the Ghan railway line – around 3:45 pm. It was a better spot than our earlier preferences anyway. I was too tired and lazy to light a fire (and a bit worried about the wind). It was around 20 degrees and sunny.

Our free camp site. Stuart Highway to the left. Train line to the right.

A goods train trundled passed as I wrote these words around 4:45 pm. A few more went by before and after bed time.

Passing goods train

Day 107 – Friday 12 September – Trip Home Day 2 - 427 km

A passenger train went by at 4:10 am. I assumed that it was the Ghan. A goods train went by around an hour later. By 7am we were eating breakfast and heading towards Port Augusta before 8 am.

We stopped in Port Augusta to top up the diesel then trundled south and south east. Not far out of town we found a quaint coffee caravan nestled under some gum trees. The local guy made excellent coffee and lemon muffins.

Coffee Van

It was soon apparent that the red dirt and salt bush of much of our recent travels had been replaced by lush farming land. Rich healthy crops were plentiful and fat sheep seemed contented. I am guessing there.

Left - Grain crop.  Right - Canola

The navigator made sure that we stopped at Lochiel and took a photo of 'Loch-Eel' in Lake Bumbunga. Legend has it that a bullock team driver made an attempt to take his team across the 'hard' lake (after a visit to the pub). Alas, the cattle left the correct path and got stuck in the 'bog'. By the time that the 'bullocky' had returned with help the wagon and the cattle team had sunk under the surface - never to be seen again. Legend has it that the team was eaten by Loch-Eel - a large monster who lives in the lake. It can still be seen today.

Above - Lake Bumbunga
Below - Loch-Eel

We stopped in Gawler for pumpkin soup and pressed on. The scenery was excellent.

Some magnificent trees

"Murray Bridge"

We stopped for the day at the Tailem Bend Football Ground - the home of the "Eagles". 

Tomorrow we will be back in our home state - for the first time in 105 days.

Day 108 – Saturday 13 September – Trip Home Day 3 - 413 km

It was 7 degrees at 6 am so the first job was to turn on the heater. For the third day in a row we were on the road before 8 am.

The first hour of driving was interesting - a heavy fog and plenty of Victorian cars heading home with Hawthorn scarves trailing out window(s) - thanks to their great AFL win over Adelaide in Adelaide last night. We counted 33 scarves for the day.

Fog and Hawthorn supporter

The rest of the day was one of our best (for this trip) driving days - very good road, no wind, sun behind us, beautiful Aussie scenery. We travelled past tens of km of canola crops that looked like the winter rains came when they were needed.

We noticed that the middle of the Bordertown racecourse was filled with a superb Canola crop - good use of a piece of land.

Great scenery

Great Canola crop

Guess

We stopped at Horsham and bought a Cornish Pastie for lunch, then visited Coles to restock the fruit & vegetables cupboard - for when we get home.

We camped for the night at the Great Western racecourse (no Canola) which is walking distance to the big Seppelt winery complex. No nearby trains and no nearby highway tonight. Just peace and quiet.

We are around 250 km from home.

Day 109 – Sunday 14 September – Home - 257 km

A short day for our last of the trip so a sleep in and a cooked breakfast. We were still on the road by 8:20 am. It was around 7 degrees.

Fifteen minutes later we were at the Ararat Sunday market, buying fresh jam donuts and a metal bizzo for the garden.

Some time later we stopped at Ballarat for diesel, then Ballan for coffee and were home by noon.

Our neighbours had their caravan in the street so we unpacked the caravan, gave it a wash and returned it to its home.

I got home in shorts - no jeans for over two months. That is maybe about to end.

*** This chapter is now complete ***

Last updated at 4:30 pm on Sunday 14 September 2025 (Victoria time)

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Chapter 15 - Northern Territory (NT)

Day 91 – Wednesday 27 August – Kununurra into NT - 406 km

We departed Kununurra around 8:25 am and were in the Northern Territory (NT) by 9am. We were sorry to leave WA after 76 days. It was 27 degrees as we departed.

The superb roads of WA became the very ordinary roads of the NT.

The magnificent Kimberley rock formations continued for the entire day, interspersed with shrubby plains.

4 minutes to wait

We stopped for a coffee stop, then fuel at Timber Creek, then lunch at Victoria River. The Victoria River was the only significant stretch of water for the day. There was significant burn-offs all day making for hazy photos.

We were impressed with the road-works stop sign that displayed how long we had to wait.

We camped 100 km west of Katherine at Mathison Roadside Camp. It was hot, damn hot.

The sunset was pretty good. The smoke haze was a big factor in the colours.

Above - Sunset at our camp just after sunset
Below - Sunset a few minutes later

I set up a 12 volt fan as the caravan was over 30 degrees as we headed to bed. The fan worked well.

Day 92 – Thursday 28 August – In to Katherine - 106 km

After a very hot night and a 90 minute change of clocks we were on the road about 45 minutes after sunrise. The temperature was pleasant, yet to get hot. Wildlife was present on and beside the road thanks to the early start. Thankfully they all stayed well off the road.

The quality of the road was much better than yesterday.

It was a pleasant drive in to Katherine where the first stop was for a 'dip' in the hot thermal springs. My guess is that the water temperature was around 25 to 30 degrees.

Katherine Hot Thermal Springs

The water was crystal clear and you could float from one pool to the next. It was an excellent way to spend an hour - and was followed by an iced-coffee and a milkshake.

Thanks to the forcast top of 37 we decided to stay in Katherine, so we booked in to a caravan park that was walking distance to the hot springs.

Not much happened apart from a walk to the hot springs for another dip. We chatted to a couple who are 13 months into an 18 month round-Aussie trip. They have two boys in Grade 4 and Kinda. Dad is a teacher.  Mum works from home (i.e. the caravan).

As I did not take the camera I missed out on photos of red-tailed black cockatoos and a rainbow bee-eater.

It was still 30 degrees one hour after sunset.

Day 93 – Friday 30 August – Katherine to Darwin - 290 km

The A/C was on nearly all night and it was a slow start. A Pheasant Coucal wandered passed the caravan as I pondered how to start the day. My first ever photo of such a bird.

Pheasant Coucal

For the first time ever in post-retirement caravan travels The Kelly's left the caravan park late - at 10:02 am. We blamed it on the recent 90 minute clock change that messed up our body clocks (not that Shirley needs any such motivation).

We stopped at Pine Creek for a coffee and Adelaide River for lunch and an ice-cream - as it was around 34 degrees. More Kimberley-type rock formations were common. The road was mostly ordinary, some was excellent. We had a tail wind for the last 200 km. 

By 2:45 we were in Kate and Dwight's driveway - our niece and her husband. They have land outside of Darwin. Camp was established and Kate soon organised a great coffee.

Lots of chats later and all workers and school attendees arrived home.

Some time later pizza and red was consumed for dinner. All was good.

Stories were read, kids went to bed, and so did we. It was a good day.

Day 94 – Saturday 30 August – Darwin 

The day started slowly and continued that way all morning.

After lunch Shirley and I drove 100 km around and in Darwin looking at street art. The following are some examples of what we saw.

Larrakia Water Tank

East Arm Point Water Tanks

Murals on Wall at Charles Darwin University 

Above & Below - Murals in Austin Street

Two Parap Water Tanks

Didgeridoo Tower

Late in the day the lamb and pork hit the 'spit' in preparation for our host's birthday party. It was an excellent evening.

Above - Early Days
Below - Ready to Carve

Day 95 – Sunday 31 August – Darwin 

Another hot night and another early start thanks to the loud voice of a 4-year old.

It was another slow start. Around 10am we headed to the Nightcliff Sunday Market. Shirley and I invested in a superb mango smoothie. Everyone had some form of snack, alleviating the need for lunch.

It was then more rest time for all.

A superb lasagna became dinner, then an early night.

Day 96 – Monday 1 September – Darwin to Katherine 

We said goodbye to the relatives and were on the road just before 9am.

It was a leisurely drive to Katherine and we were on site just after 1pm.

We had extended our stay so that we could revisit Nitmiluk Gorge - formerly called Katherine Gorge.

A visit to the "I" locked in a gorge tour for tomorrow and we were in the local hot springs around 3:30. We chatted to other grey nomads. A great soak preceded curried sausages for dinner.

Shirley invested in some frozen mango that will accompany breakfast over the next few days.

Mango Man

We decided to watch the news and found out that Katherine does not have an ABC TV channel.

Day 97 – Tuesday 2 September – Katherine Day 2 

Another casual start, some exercises, then a 30 km drive to Nitmiluk/Katherine Gorge, for a Two Gorges Tour.

We visited the gorge over 30 years ago, and we were pretty impressed again.

The birds we saw today - Rainbow Lorikeet, Galah, Red tailed black Cockatoo, Pied Cormorant.

Our chariot for today

Indigenous Rock Art

We were back at camp by 2:30 and in the hot springs just after 3pm. A good soak and a chat with other folk was a pleasant pastime.

Shirley made some rissoles for dinner. I was allowed to cook them.

A top of 34 had dropped to 23 by 8pm.

Day 98 – Wednesday 3 September – Katherine Day 3 

It was a cool/good night for sleeping. Another normal start - casual shower, BBQ breakfast, clothes washing, exercises, coffee. It was 24 degrees at 10am.

A bit of shopping plus some diesel and we were ready for departure tomorrow.

We had our third soak in the hot springs in as many days and our fourth in the last 6 days. I then went for a drive to get photos of some of the fine street art on show in Katherine.

Above & Below - Katherine Street Art

We had baked spuds for dinner.

Day 99 – Thursday 4 September – Katherine to Sir Charles Todd Memorial Rest Area - 356 km

Our departure from Katherine was hastened slightly by a power outage from Darwin to Katherine – over 300 km. Hair was not dried properly, and a couple of other 240v jobs were bypassed. We were south of Katherine by 8:45 am and in the hot springs at Bitter Springs around 80 minutes later. It was a pleasant hour floating in the warm water.

Above & Below - Heaven on Earth at Bitter Springs

We drifted into Mataranka and tried milkshakes and a Danish at the bakery. Both were excellent.

Further south we pressed. Sadly we bypassed Gorrie Airfield (a great free camp spot) as it was too early and too hot to stop.

We stopped at Lorimar for a sandwich for lunch and smiled at the Pink Panther. The further south.

To rekindle good memories we stopped and strolled through the Daly Waters Pub.

Daly Waters Pub

Around 3:30 it was time to stop at the Sir Charles Todd Memorial Rest Area. I spent the next 90 minutes trying to get a decent photo of two kites who seemed to be local residents. In between watching kites we also watched the passing road trains.

Two Beautiful birds - Kites

A selection of road trains

The hot day cooled appreciably once the sun set.

Day 100 – Friday 5 September – Onwards to Bonney Well Rest Area - 415 km

Spartan Travel

We were both up at dawn, around 6:45 am, and on the road before 8am. Overnight a caravan had joined us at a very late hour (around 12:15) as well as a female on a bicycle towing a small trailer. She slept in a small tent. Not our preferred way to travel.

Not long after we stopped at Elliot and filled up with diesel then enjoyed a tail wind for the second day in a row.

The scenery was constantly changing.

We could not find a shady spot for lunch in Tennant Creek so we headed out of town and found an appropriate spot.

Onward we pressed stopping 90 km later at a free camp spot between the highway and the Ghan railway line. It was somewhere around 34 degrees. We have stopped here before.

Day 101 – Saturday 6 September – South to Alice Springs - 426 km

We have clocked up just under 1200 km in three days on our way south.......

The start time was a repeat of yesterday and on the road before 8am.

Today would be our best and easiest day of driving this trip - by a long way. The 400+ km was very straight and very flat - hills virtually non existent and bends a rarity. The road quality was excellent. The early breeze behind us got stronger as the day got hotter. Most of the day we sat around 95 km/h at around 1600 RPM.

It was also a very safe trip as we had a two-car police escort for the last 275 km - probably courtesy of the busy weekend in Alice Springs. They even stopped at the same place for morning tea.

We passed 'Devils Marbles' enroute, but no photos can be posted here as they are banned at the sacred site.

This weekend Alice Springs is hosting the "Red CentreNATS 11" event. It is a 'show and tell' for folk to show off their vintage and veteran cars. Some of the cars were in the same park.

Two of the cars in the "Red CentreNATS 11" event

It came to pass that our caravan park was beside the Alice Springs brewery so we headed there for a late afternoon refreshment.

Products of Alice Springs Brewery

I cooked a stew to use all the veggies before we crossed (yet another) border. While it was cooked we admired the lovely lights above the caravan.

Our caravan under lights

Stew ready for the trip home

Day 102 – Sunday 7 September – Father’s Day – Alice Springs to Agnes Creek - 360 km 

Another day, another 360 km behind us. So was the sun and the wind making for another excellent day for driving. The majestic Aussie landscape also added to the enjoyment.

As it was Father’s Day I was allowed an easy start, so we hit the road just before 9am.

Some time later we passed the turn off to King’s Canyon – some great memories there.

Next was the turn off to Uluru – more great memories from three different decades. That turn off also provided the Erldunda Roadhouse, which provided great memories (with friends) of eating hot chips on a hot day. So we bought some freshly cooked hot chips and they were great. However we forgot about the flies from the first time. They were still there, and so were their mates.

Above & Below - More Central Australia Scenery

Soon we crossed into South Australia. Onwards we pressed and found an excellent spot around 1:30 pm to prop for the night – Agnes Creek Rest Area. We relaxed in the shade and so did 3 trillion flies – more than we found at Erldunda. The fly net came out, which made it hard to drink coffee or do a sudoku.

The sunset was also pretty good.

Sunset south of the NT/SA Border

Sometime during the day we passed 16,000 km for the trip.

Coober Pedy tomorrow – just 320 km away.

Day 103 – Monday 8 September – Agnes Creek  to Coober Pedy- 317 km 

Not far to go equals casual start. We left just before 9 am.

Art or Graffiti 100's of km from the nearest town

Around 1:30 we set up camp in Coober Pedy.

Footnote:

We have travelled just under 1900 km in five days from Katherine to Coober Pedy. Interestingly there are only two towns in that 1900 km, Tennant Creek (675 km south) and Alice Springs (another 508 km south). There are plenty of roadhouses or fuel stops.

Furthermore, the next town of substance after Coober Pedy (heading south) is Port Augusta - 545 km away.

This chapter is now complete.

Last updated at 4:30 pm on Monday 8 September 2025 (NT time)

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