Chapter 12 - The Pilbara

Day 61 – Monday 28 July – Transit to 40 Mile beach –183 km

We were in bed early and up early and on the road by 8am. We had a gale force tail wind for most of the morning before arriving at 40 Mile Beach around 10:30. By 11 am camp was established and we were planning our day.

The morning provided constant landscape that looked ‘rusty’ and ‘metallic’ – iron ore country. Very barren. The only hint of civilization was the road traffic (50% caravans, 40% transport) and the mines. We did not even pass a roadhouse.

Our camp for the night was a council managed beachside site. No power, no water, no showers. Just a magnificent view of the ocean – 40 metres away. The road in looked a bit dubious but was OK thanks to a lack of rain. The park manager did not like the site we had picked (too many mozzies) so he gave us a better site with a better view (and fewer mozzies).

Above - The view from the caravan
Below - The road in off the highway

We went into beachcombing mode and had 3 km walk along the rocky & sandy beach, marvelling at the number of Sturt's Desert Pea plants along the edge of the beach. It was maybe 25 degrees and very windy, but the beach was protected from the wind. [Beach 52, Walks 57]

Sturt's Desert Pea

Above - Sandy part of the beach
Below - Rocky part of the beach

The rock formations were very interesting, many consisting of a high percentage of seashells and pebbles. Any interesting geological phenomena from many eons ago.

Composite form of rock

A bird was rock hopping near us and stopped long enough for a couple of photos.

Solar panels were in place and relaxation was then in order.

Day 62 – Tuesday 29 July – Exploring

Our day started on a downer as some fool had left accessories ‘ON’ all night and we had a bat flattery. My new ‘Kings’ toy came to the fore and the battery was jump started. A great tool for all nomads to have.

Shirley wanted to revisit Murujuga National Park, which is considered to host the largest concentration of ancient rock art in the world, possibly dating back as much as 47,000 years.

On the way we visited Dampier and the North-West Project Visitors Centre. The project has some interesting statistics. Next we walked along the beach at Hearson’s Cove and some dill nearly got wet feet from the incoming tide. It was a pleasant beach. [Beach 53, Walks 58]

Hearson’s Cove Beach

Eventually we got to Murujuga and the rock art along ‘Ngajarli Trail’. I took plenty of photos. We were not allowed to explore to the same extent that we have in a previous visit, but we saw plenty of rock art – or ‘petroglyphs’.

Some of the Rock Art on display

A small ring-tailed dragon (Ctenophorus caudicinctus) sunned itself on a rock and a very small legless lizard slithered across my sneaker.

Above - Excitable Delma Legless Lizard
Below - A ring-tailed dragon

We detoured via Karratha on the way home and stocked up on water, a necessary commodity of life.

A couple of jobs were completed at home and we went for a walk on the rocky beach. A white bellied sea eagle was being terrorised by some sea-gulls and it posed long enough for me to get some photo from quite close. [Beach 53, Walks 59]

A magnificent white bellied sea eagle

Day 63 – Wednesday 30 July – 40 Mile Beach to Cleaverville

We said goodbye to 40 Mile Beach about 8:30 and trundled into Karratha. We said hello at the “I” and were briefed on the locally-popular Mulla Mulla plant (Ptilotus exaltatus), which is common all around Karratha and had an appropriate sculpture in town. I took photos of both.

Above - Mulla Mulla plants
Below - Mulla Mulla status

Karratha Tank Mural

A few essentials of life were purchased and we moved on to Cleaverville and our beach-side bush-camp. The water was around forty metres from the caravan and we had an unimpeded view of the ocean and the incoming wind.

Camp was established. Lunch was organised. We rested, before we had a 2 km beach stroll. [Beach 54, Walks 60]

Cleaverville Beach

Dinner was a prawn salad, thanks to the $20 per kg king prawns that Shirley bought at Karratha. There is enough left over for a revisit tomorrow night.

I did score a sunset photo.

Cleaverville Sunset

Day 64 – Thursday 31 July – Cleaverville

Cleaverville is one of those rare places where the sun sets & rises over the same beach. I was five minutes too late to get proof of the sunrise.

The start of our tenth week was a slow affair as overdue exercises were the priority. I then caught up on some blog updates and emails as Shirley busied herself somewhere.

The gale winds delayed our walk, and then restricted the beach walk to 1.5 km. [Beach 54, Walks 61]

With internet available I was able to catch up on many more emails and get this blog up to date.

Around 2pm we got sick of waiting for the winds to drop and went for another beach walk. [Beach 54, Walks 62]

The arrow shows roughly the location of our caravan

In a Kelly first, Shirley and I adjusted a favourite recipe to conjure up a Venison salami, prawn & pumpkin paella'. It was excellent, although a touch of chilli would have been a smart idea.

Prior to that the sunset photo was similar to yesterday, with the inclusion of two guys trying to organise dinner as in catch fish).

Cleaverville Sunset

As we relaxed a neighbour got out a guitar and started to play/sing Neil Young like songs. It was a pleasant way to get into bed with Neil Young singing 'Harvest'.

Day 65 – Friday 1 August – Cleaverville to beyond Port Hedland

I was up at 6:30 am to get a sunrise photo from the same beach as the sunset last night. Mission accomplished.

Cleaverville Sunrise over the same beach

The Kelly team moved away from Cleaverville soon after 8am into a gale head wind. Judging by the fuel economy it was maybe our strongest head wind yet – and that is a big claim. For 200+ km of Highway No 1 from Cleaverville to Port Hedland the car never got into top gear. It was hard work.

Arrival at the mining precinct of Port Hedland was achieved around 11 am. The “I” could not tell us train times to allow us to count the cars on a 2.5 km train. They advised us that turtles were not in season for us to have a sticky beak. However they told us where to top up on water and a good stop to have lunch – overlooking Port Hedland’s best beach.

After a hot-dog for lunch (in the caravan) and filling up with diesel we headed another 82 km to a great free camp beside the De Grey river. It was around 26 degrees, windy and dusty. But we were fine.

We were only about 170 km from Eighty Mile Beach – our home for four nights.

Books were read for a while before we went for a walk to check out the De Grey river – quite an impressive waterway. We counted 54 ‘rigs’ at 4:45, and more were coming in. There was plenty of room.

De Grey River and the Highway No 1 Bridge

A flock of Cockatiels made it very hard to get a photo.

Cockatiel 

Day 66 – Saturday 2 August – Free Camp to Eighty Mile Beach

It is amazing how the arrival at a place like Eighty Mile Beach can make you forget the effort of 500 km of fierce head winds. But it did. 27 degrees and a slighty cool breeze. Camp was established by 1pm and lunch was had.

A sample of the 18 km road into Eighty Mile Beach

There was a small market in the park which we strolled though and bought some lollies off two young girls. We had time for an ice-cream before a walk on the beach was had. More great memories refreshed.[Beach 55, Walks 63]

The beach view looking roughly east at 2:30 pm

The beach view looking roughy west at 3pm

The beach has so many shells that shell collection is encouraged. They even sell shell tubs in the shop. 

Sunset around 6pm

It was still 21 degrees at 8 pm, a big change for us.

On the way here today we passed 11,000 km for the trip, and the car went past 30,000 (in 15 months).

Day 67 – Sunday 3 August – Eighty Mile Beach

Believe it or not, Eighty Mile Beach is actually 137 miles long - or 220 km. I was on a small section of the beach at 6:15 am waiting for the 6:25 sunrise. The following is a sample of what I saw as I strolled along the beach. [Beach 55, Walks 64] The milky sun had to fight its way through the clouds.

Sunrise on Eighty Mile Beach

Two loads of clothes were on the line and this blog was updated before Shirley emerged from her favourite spot - her bed.

Around 10:30 am we had joint good and bad news, in a good old-fashioned Pilbara downpour. The clothes on the line were getting an extra rinse, while the solar panels (that were more red dirt than black) got put out in the rain and got a good wash. Job done. That was a saving of water and effort.

A bucket under the end of the awning captured maybe 30 litres of water that was used to remove plenty of red dirt from the car.

Alternate jobs replaced a morning beach walk. Young kids made good use of the puddles. Their clothes, shoes and bikes will all need cleaning. 

When the rain eased I had enough water to wash the car properly. A few housekeeping jobs, some lunch and it was time for a 4 km beach walk. [Beach 55, Walks 65]

Not Paradise, but a good substitute

Another ice-cream, then book reading time. Rissoles for dinner.

Day 68 – Monday 4 August – Eighty Mile Beach

The clouds made another good sunrise a possibility so I was again on the beach soon after 6 am. I was not disappointed.

Pre-Sunrise at 6:17 am

Sunrise at 6:28 am

I took the opportunity to have an enjoyable beach walk and paddle.  [Beach 55, Walks 66]

A Sooty Oystercatcher and his mates were busy on the beach.

I was out of the shower and had updated this blog before Shirley emerged.

A cooked/BBQ egg & tomato & avocado was in order and was duly produced.

Some jobs, some relaxing, then coffee, then a 3 km walk on the beach. It was around 26 degrees. [Beach 55, Walks 67] Then lunch, then book reading. Now 28 degrees.

More book reading, an ice cream, some relaxation, then another 3 km beach walk as the sun dipped lower. [Beach 55, Walks 68] I was too lazy to head back for a sunset photo.

Day 69 – Tuesday 5 August – Eighty Mile Beach

Ditto from yesterday. Clouds, sunrise photo, beach walk. [Beach 55, Walks 69]

According to my phone it was 19 degrees at 6am with barely a breath of wind.

One day later, but similar time & place & outcome

A few small birds were moving quickly all around me.

Breakfast, then exercises. Then a 2 km beach walk before lunch. [Beach 55, Walks 70]

After lunch I wanted to find a couple of Kingfishers that we saw when we came in, so I went for a walk, camera in hand. The Kingfisher(s) turned out to be Rainbow Bee-eater(s). 

Rainbow Bee-eater. Not sure if this is one bird or two

Some R & R, some book reading, some planning for a departure tomorrow, then a 3 km beach walk - maybe our last walk on the beach at Eighty Mile Beach. [Beach 55, Walks 71]

An ice-cream followed.

Not a bad spot for a walk

I then had a chat with two WA residents who tried to convince me of the great spots to visit in WA. The conversation fizzled out when we worked out that I had seen more of their state than they had - and more times.

The sunset was all cloud - no photo. Pork chops for dinner.

Day 70 – Wednesday 6 August – Eighty Mile Beach

I needed one more walk on the beach, and one more chance at a sunrise photo. [Beach 55, Walks 72] I scored a 2 km walk but the clouds thwarted my chances at a decent sunrise photo. As it was around 21 degrees it was a very pleasant walk.

Rain threatened, but never really happened apart from a few drops.

We sadly said goodbye to Eighty Mile Beach about 9am, maybe just before. My watch has a flat battery so I am a bit more relaxed about times.

We stopped for fuel at Sandfire Roadhouse ($2.37) and then pressed on. The scenery was constantly changing with many wildflowers on display.

It was a short day with a free camp about 150 km before Broome. We chatted to a young family from Geelong (four kids) who were heading to Eighty Mile Beach – the kids for shell hunting, Dad for fishing. I gave the youngest one of our decent sized shells. She was rapt. Shirley wasn’t.

The afternoon was spent under a picnic gazebo reading our books – and discussing each new arrival.

The sunset was an OK way to finish the day.

*** This chapter is now complete ***

Last updated at 8:20 pm on Thursday 7 August 2025 (WA time)

Our approximate route from home to Eighty Mile Beach

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Chapter 11 - Coral Coast

Day 51 - Friday 18 July 2025 – North to Carnarvon - 230 km

We were up early and smiled at the cars coming out of Shark Bay that were being stopped by Fisheries Inspectors.

It was a lovely start to the day as we smartly drove the 200 km to Carnarvon, with a tail wind. Maybe 8 or 9 wedge tailed eagles were spotted as we headed north - none being captured by my camera. During the morning we ticked over 9000 km for the trip - and we are nearly half way.

The day just got better as we moved along, getting to a top around 22 degrees.

Some of the road to Carnarvon

The "I" had a great spot to park and provided water for the caravan. We had our biggest shop of the trip at Woolworths (no fruit or veggies) before embarking on the 'food trail' - a series of road side stops and shops that sold local produce. We bought fresh tomatoes (2 types), zucchini, corn, bananas, avocado, beans, capcisum (2 colours), cucumber, oranges & broccoli. The prices and the freshness were amazing.

Somehow we weakened and we also tried a chocolate coated banana and a mango smoothie.

Our fruit for the day - Banana & Mango

Somewhere in there we also visited the cactus garden - a prickly encounter.

The Cactus garden

As we wanted to go to the Saturday market we camped locally. We were well off the road and nowhere near a train line so we settled in for a quiet night - until we realised that we were in the flight path for the Carnarvon airport.

A flock of corellas occupied the tree beside the caravan.

With our new supply of veggies I cooked up some veggie patties for dinner. They were OK.

Day 52 - Saturday 19 July 2025 – Carnarvon to Coral Bay - 242 km

We slept in but were on the road by 9 am - to check out the local Saturday market. It was less than impressive but we bought some Pink Lady's and tomato chutney. A quick visit to Woolworths - for carrots & mandarins - and we were on our way.

The road to Coral Bay had two sections, 110 km of highway No 1 and 120 km of the offshoot into Coral Bay. The first section - which ran between two sand-dunes - was like the Hume Highway just outside Melbourne at the end of the Easter break. The camping-style holiday makers dominated the road - being the second last day of the WA school holidays. Caravans, campers, trailers with camping gear, cars with roof top stuff, surfboards, big boats, little boats, tinneys, bikes. You name it - we saw it. It was amazing.

Along the trip we saw a handful of birds and no other animals. It is barren land. We also crossed the 'Tropic of Capricorn' and moved into the tropics.

It took a while to get this photo

We arrived at our '2025 bucket list' item - Coral Bay - around 1pm. It was about 23 degrees and we had a roadside site - so as close to the beach as anyone else in the large park.

Some setup was achieved - then lunch - then the rest of the setup. Then some relaxation.

Then a 2 km walk on the superb beach. Really great memories returned from 2011 and 2019. [Beach 43, Walks 42]

A school of around six fish swam maybe three metres from me. They were nearly the length of my arm.

Fish in crystal clear water

 

Back at camp we chilled out and listened to the antics of a family - with three young boys - set up their camp beside us.

We were so relaxed that I was too lazy to walk the 200 metres to get an excellent sunset photo - but I did get the following photo from the caravan.

Shirley was kind enough to let me cook outdoors (outdoors for the first time this trip). The meal consisted of chicken and a selection of Carnarvon veggies.

Day 53 - Sunday 20 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

A slow start, an excellent shower from bore water naturally hot, then a BBQ bacon & egg breakfast. Lots of noise from happy kids filled the air. Mums and Dads seemed a bit slow.

Exercises were next, a necessary evil part of our life. 😇

After a relaxing morning and lunch we went for another walk on what is probably my favourite beach in Australia. More paddling, more fish, more sun. [Beach 43, Walks 43]

A magic part of Australia

Although it had been a sunny day a front coming in from the west threatened my chance at a sunset photo. The following two photos came from my patience in the beach.

Sunset photos from the same spot at the same time
Above - Zoom photo to get the boat
Below - Distant photo

Day 54 - Monday 21 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

A heavy shower of overnight rain and strong winds reduced to strong wind by the time we started the day.

We went for a short drive to 'Monck Head' and had a stroll on the superb, albeit small, beach. The wonderful colours of the water are something hard to capture with my camera. So I captured some fish, some crabs and a White Faced Heron.

Beach at Monck Head [Beach 44, Walks 44]

White Faced Heron

School of small fish

Crabs about the size of my hand

After lunch and some reading it was time for our afternoon walk. Being low tide we were able to go further and enjoy more beach. [Beach 44, Walks 45]

Note the three colours of the water - that align with the depth

Fish near our legs

Just to be different, for dinner we had a home made pizza with venison salami a feature. Everyone involved (two of us) thought it was pretty good.

Day 55 - Tuesday 22 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

Another sunny start to the day. Exercises. Book reading. Coffee. Relaxation.

After lunch we had a 3 km beach walk taking a slightly different route via a sand-dune to get two photos. [Beach 44, Walks 46]

The colours we see every day.
From the bottom, sand, shallows, middle depth, deeper/coral/seaweed.
Top of very dark blue - waves crashing over Ningaloo reef

Our favourite beach, looking back towards the town - from the sand-dune

Around 4pm the piece of lamb and some roasting veggies were added to the Weber.

Around 5:50 I had to decide between a great sunset photo or a great lamb roast meal. The latter won, but I got photos of both.

Lamb Roast - Weber Style

Just after sunset and just prior to lamb roast

Day 56 - Wednesday 23 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

Another slow start. Egg cooked on BBQ for breakfast. House work. Morning walk on the beach as a big 'front' comes in from the west. [Beach 44, Walks 47]

Maybe some rain later today

Thanks to the excellent bakery over the road we had a fresh salad roll for lunch, followed by a Carnarvon banana. Did you know that bananas are grown in WA?

After lunch we had our afternoon beach walk - again 3 km. [Beach 44, Walks 48] The clouds were getting darker each hour, and ruined any chance of a sunset photo.

Pork chop on the BBQ for dinner before the pitter patter started on the roof.

Day 57 - Thursday 24 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

The focus of the start of our ninth week was wind and intermittent rain - and our desire to avoid both. Little was achieved before lunch.

The rain cleared around lunch time and I decided that we needed a beach walk. We turned right, instead of left, and found a new beach that worked out to be a 'shark nursery'.  The bay we found is a popular spot for certain sharks to court, mate, maybe give birth and provide a nursery for the young (until they are OK to leave home).

The surrounding beach was impressive, although the gale winds did not allow us to appreciate it fully. 

'Shark Nursery' (Nhuga Malinmayi) Beach [Beach 45, Walks 49]

We returned to base and were happy to get out of the wind. I cooked a lamb stew for dinner.

Day 58 - Friday 25 July 2025 – Coral Bay 

The start of our last full day in Coral Bay (maybe ever) started sunny with a cool breeze. Shirley headed to the hairdresser, who also has other jobs in Coral Bay. I did a few pack-up jobs in readiness for any early departure tomorrow. Yes, Shirley knows.

A couple of fresh bakery rolls became lunch before we headed to the beach for our last enjoyable walk at Coral Bay. Without exaggeration we probably saw 1000+ fish. My board shorts got only partially wet. The temperature was around 19 degrees. Another tourist took our photo. [Beach 45, Walks 50]

Close to the end of a great relaxing week

We chose to have dinner for our last evening at ‘Bill’s’ – a pub about 250 metres from our caravan. My choice for dinner was chilli mussels, photo provided. Note the fresh bread roll beside the bowl of mussels. The bowl came with a lid that served to hold the discarded shells. There is no doubt in my mind that the mussels were as good as I have ever had. 

Chilli Mussels at Bill's

Day 59 – Saturday 26 July – Coral Bay to Cape Range NP – 316 km

Shirley was in the shower before the sun peeked over the trees, but she did not know that until I TOLD HER later. We were on the road at 8:05 am, saying goodbye to another great time at Coral Bay. Just under two hours later we were in Exmouth. Not long after that we were checking in to Yardi Homestead Caravan Park – a place in the middle of nowhere with around 200 sites. Power is limited and water was scarce, but it was home for a night – and a great place to camp.

Camp was quickly established and we departed south into Cape Range National Park. As we only had one night here we skipped the scenic walks and focussed on the beach walks. We were definitely in the land of termite mounds, many much higher than our car.

A termite mound with character, maybe 3 metres high

Our first stop was ‘Lakeside Beach’, another lovely Ningaloo Beach. [Beach 46, Walks 51]

Lakeside Beach, Cape Range NP

Next stop was Turquoise Bay, allegedly one of the best beaches in Australia. We did not argue. [Beach 47, Walks 52]

Turquoise Bay Beach, Cape Range NP

After a quick sandwich lunch we moved further south to ‘Oyster Stacks’, so called because of the oysters on top of rock piers/stacks jutting out of the water. No beach here to talk about.

Above - Oysters Stacks Beach and Oyster Stacks
Below - A glum looking resident

Our fourth stop was ‘ Sandy Beach’ and a spot that that we would put in front of Turquoise Bay – probably our best beach of the trip so far (without taking anything away from Coral Bay). The water colours were exquisite. [Beach 48, Walks 53]

Sandy Beach, Cape Range NP

We then stopped at ‘Osprey Bay’ as turtles were allegedly able to be seen. Not so today. It was popular for nearby national park campers. Dolphins and a turtle had been seen earlier.

A small beach at Osprey Bay, Cape Range NP
Popular as there was a nearby camp site

We turned around at Yardi Creek and headed back to base. On the way back we stopped at Tantabiddi and found another excellent beach. [Beach 49, Walks 54]

Tantabiddi Beach, Cape Range NP

Back at camp we had a coffee and a walk around the huge park. 240 v power is generated here and drinking water is provided from an on-site reverse-osmosis desalination plant – both are expensive processes.

Live music drifted through the park as we had own Happy Hour. It had been a long day.

 

Day 60 – Sunday 27 July – Cape Range NP into the Pilbara – 372 km

We were woken early by a mischievous phone call on Shirley’s phone. So up we got and departed soon after 8:15 am.

Our first stop was the wreck of the SS Mildura that ran aground in 1907. There was no loss of human life but many cattle on board could not be saved.

Very close to the wreck we checked out ‘Surfers Beach’. It was rocky but great waves were rolling in. [Beach 50, Walks 55]

Surfers Beach, Exmouth

Then some housekeeping stuff in Exmouth and a photo of the big prawn. Shirley found a market so we bought tomatoes, apples & bananas. Photos of plants were frequently taken all day, plus a painted tank just outside Exmouth. We also stopped to get our first photo of the trip of a Sturt Desert Pea – an amazing flower.

Does it need a label?

Swainsona formosa, commonly known as Sturt's desert pea or Sturt pea

It was time for morning tea by the time we stopped at Pebble Beach just 50 km in 100 minutes. [Beach 51, Walks 56] 

Pebble Beach & Pebbles

A Finch posed for me. 

Maybe a 'Beautiful Fantail'

Then we stopped to check out a memorial to the Navy efforts in WW2.

Around 150 km after leaving Exmouth we turned left/east and a strong cross/head wind became a tail wind.

We were now in the Pilbara – red dirt/iron country. It was amazing how the landscape changed as we turned east. The sandy landscape became red dirt/iron country. We started to regularly cross sand-dunes – maybe the height of four to seven twin-cab utes.

Our chosen stop for the night was booked out so we drove another 44 km and stopped on the corner of the Onslow turnoff – with two other Victorian caravans. All indications were that the temperature was around 24/25 degrees. The wind was howling across the plains from the west. Hopefully a tail wind tomorrow.

The sunset was really good, as was the roast lamb for dinner.

*** This chapter is now complete - as at 9 am on Thursday 31 July***

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