Monday, 23 June 2025

Chapter 6 - Albany to Walpole

Day 27 – Tuesday 24 June – Albany Day 1

Albany is the oldest colonial settlement in Western Australia, with a population around 35,000. Although it has a lot to offer, that all had to wait while we did our overdue exercises (we are scared of the physio Gods), inside the caravan, to Irish country music.

By 9:30 am it had nearly reached the maximum temperature of 15 degrees. The rain had eased and the wind was hiding somewhere.

Our first port of call was the 'National ANZAC Centre'. Albany is where over 41,000 Aussie & Kiwi troops departed for WW1 and Gallipoli. Many did not make it back and many that did only lasted a short time as stress, gas and wounds took their terrible toll.

The site of the centre - Albany Heritage Park - is located where a site was established prior to the war to defend this part of Australia. The locals have done a superb job establishing a very sobering memorial to the Aussie & Kiwi troops who left their families to defend 'King & Country'.

A couple of appropriate symbols

A refurbished period building



Shirley pondering where munitions were stored

We departed and visited the local art silo and took another photo - again impressive.


It was time for a bowl of Italian soup and sourdough toast for lunch near some Albany street art, and the historical town hall.

Albany Town Hall

The six indigenous seasons

Street Art

It was time for a beach and some fauna. The beach was Middleton Beach - a great beach except that the sharp shells meant that shoes were mandatory.

Middleton Beach [Beach 30, Walks 29]

The flora was a Galah on the Middleton foreshore and a rabbit at the caravan park. One was too tough to cook, the other was too fast to catch.

Shirley organised dinner of steak and veggies - I cooked it. It was superb.


Day 28 – Wednesday 25 June – Albany Day 2

It was our busiest day and the best weather for some time. Two full loads of washing - sheets, towels, clothes, the lot - it all went in.

With sunny skies and no wind we set off for the "Gap and Natural Bridge", natural wonders of the WA south coast. The sun and the vantage points did not allow for great photos.

"The Natural Bridge"
In the middle of the white foaming surf there are 3 shadows, Shirley and I are 2 of them

Waves crashing into the Gap
We were standing on a platform that overhangs the 'Gap'

From there we headed to the Albany Whaling Station, which closed in 1978. They have a great exhibition and display that took a couple of hours to wander over, read, see and listen. It was another sobering experience and a reminder of how tough life was in some professions - not to mention the sad way that whales were treated.

The "Cheynes IV" one of the whaling fleet ships

Half of  an excellent sea-shell display

An Eastern Osprey overlooking our tour

Two whale skeletons

Another interesting sign

Click here if you wish to learn more about the whaling station.

Whales had been sighted at the "Blow Hole" so we stopped there. The blow holes were not to be seen, but we could hear the water going into them. We saw a couple of whales in the distance, but they were not in a mood for posing. It was a long tough walk for little reward - but the exercise was good.

A couple of great-looking beaches were seen on our travels - but we did not get close enough to allow them to be added to my register.

Dinner for four was at the Albany Premier Hotel with former neighbours from home - grey nomads doing a similar thing to us. It was a pleasant catch-up with Peter & Lorraine and a great meal.


Day 29 – Thursday 26 June – Albany Day 3

Yesterday was busy culturally, socially and physically so we awarded ourselves a sleep in and a cooked breakfast. The remaining bacon combined beautifully with the last two eggs and the last two slices of bread/toast - I got the crust.

The caravan looked like an Irish laundry - airing yesterday's washing - to be sure, to be sure, to be sure. 

Sightseeing, shopping, car wash and diesel were to be the days highlights.

Our first stop was the location of the very very old indigenous fish traps. However the tide was too high and we missed out on the major attraction.

Then it was the 'Albany Chainsaw Art' - a large collection of (mostly) wood art created by a chainsaw by one person - Darrel Radcliffe. It was an amazing collection of wood art, along a one-way road through his property.


An example of Darrel Radcliffe's chainsaw art

Click here if you want to see a lot more.

Now it was time for fish purchase, other shopping, a car wash and a diesel top up, then lunch.

Not much happened after that apart for a 3 km walk along Emu Beach.

Emu Beach [Beach 31, Walks 30]

Dinner was a home cooked piece of local fresh Spangled Emperor some chips and a bit of salad. It was superb.



Day 30 – Friday 27 June – Albany Day 4

The start of our fifth week on the road was our most physical, courtesy of the Porongurup National Park. Shorts were donned (because of the expected walking) and we drove 50 km north to the National Park. Lunch and a thermos were packed.

We decided that the Castle Rock Granite Skywalk was too hard for us so we headed off in a different direction - to do a walk that was probably harder than the above walk. We tackled the Nancy Peak Walk and a lesser stroll - a total of around six km for the two.

The scenery was breath-taking and the birds plentiful - although most were too fast for me or too far from the camera. The following gives a summary of what we saw in Porongurup National Park.

The road through the National park

Some magnificent timber

A couple of struggling grey nomads


More timber on our walk

The view from near the top of Nancy Peak Walk

Our walks were in there somewhere
White-throated Honeyeater, Grey Honeyeater, Some sort of Kingfisher
There were many more birds, but I managed to catch these

We arrived home about 3pm and relaxed, then started to research our plan as we move west tomorrow - after visiting the farmers market.

Today it apparently reached 21 degrees. A similar day tomorrow would be great.


Day 31 – Saturday 28 June – Albany to Walpole - 150 km  

Our day started with a 9am departure and a short drive into the Albany Farmers Market. Before we departed a Rosella posed for me.

A thing of beauty...

Shirley was impressed with the veggie prices while I bought an excellent danish.

We went the scenic route - through fertile grazing land - to Denmark where we chatted to the lady at the "I" then we ignored her advice. She wanted us to eat cheese, cakes, etc and drink wine, coffee and beer. No we said, and onwards we pressed.

Our target was "Elephants Rocks and Greens Pool" and memories of 30+ years ago. Dementia is not with us - the memories were true. The scenic beauty, the colour of the water and the sandy beaches were as we remembered.

 None of these photos do justice to what we saw.

Waterfall beach and the waterfall it is named after - maybe 2 metres in height 
[Beach 32, Walks 31]

Madfish Bay


Elephants Rocks

Beach at Greens Pool [Beach 33, Walks 32]

Our paddle in the water was our first for the trip. The jeans were swapped for shorts before we left the car/caravan.

Elephants Rocks also provided our first reptile photo of the trip - a King's Skink (Egernia kingii). It was maybe 500 mm long.

King's Skink (Egernia kingii)
About 500 mm long

Very late (for us) we decided to camp near Walpole and we were surprised at the markings of the resident pregnant kangaroo. Her previous offspring had the same forehead white stamp.


According to Shirley's calculations and my electronics we walked around 5 km and went up/down around 600 steps, on and into beaches. So much for a quiet stroll on a couple of beaches.


*** This chapter is now complete ***
*** Day 32 onwards has been moved to Chapter 7 ***



Last updated at 5 pm on Wednesday 2 July 2025 (WA time)

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Sunday, 15 June 2025

Chapter 5 - Esperance to Albany

Day 19 – Monday 16 June – Esperance Day 1

Esperance (pop. 12000) has an enormous amount to offer the 'outdoors' traveller. That had to wait while we had a sleep in and then did our exercises after breakfast.

The 'real' activity started with some food shopping then a drive around to most of the murals around town.

After lunch we followed the 'Great Ocean Drive' whose views would rival the 'Great Ocean Road' of Victoria, albeit somewhat shorter.

A sample of our day follows.

Morning - mural photos ......................




For more mural photos please click here.

Afternoon - Beach photos ......................

Eleven Mile (Clothing Optional) Beach - [Beach 11, Walks 13]


Twilight Cove Beach - [Beach 13, Walks 15]

For more beach & bird photos please click here.

There was even more to see...........

Historic Clock Tower Chimes Every 15 minutes during the day

Tankers being loaded at Esperance

Esperance has quite a busy port as it has a deeper harbour than Albany. The main exports are grain and iron ore and the main imports are fertiliser. The grain is moved to Esperance by truck and the iron ore arrives by train.

It was a long day and we were happy to sit down to a BBQ steak for dinner.

Steak on BBQ. Wine in hand


Day 20 – Tuesday 17 June – Cape le Grand - 255 km

Today we drove 255 km to, between and returned from a collection of beaches that could claim to be the best collection of beaches in Australia. We have seen a lot of Australia and what we saw today was somewhere above magnificent. If you wish to debate the above claim please add a comment to this blog page.

We did a load of washing, had a cooked breakfast and headed off just after 8:30 am. Our first stop was Lucky Bay. Please remember that NONE of the following photos do justice to what we saw today.

Wow!

Lucky Bay - [Beach 15, Walks 16]

Next was Thistle Cove and Whistling Rock - the latter 'whistling' when the wind blows through its crevices.

Whistling Rock

Thistle Cove - [Beach 16, Walks 17]

It was time for lunch and a couple of ham rolls were prepared. A crow wanted some of our food. He was a magnificent looking bird - not that I am a fan of crows.


Once that was avoided we headed onto the beach at Hellfire Bay. This was another great example of fine squeaky white sand.


The crow followed us for a while, in vain hope of us feeding it something that it was not born to eat.


Like all the other beaches there were few or no people in sight.

Beach at Hellfire Bay [Beach 17, Walks 18]

Although the beach has lots of potential the seaweed ruined the Cape Le Grand beach.

Cape Le Grand beach [Beach 18, Walks 19]

It was a 50 km drive to the eastern extremity of Cape Le Grand and the sands of Wharton Beach. 

Wharton Beach [Beach 19, Walks 20]

We did not see much fauna (apart from the crow) but the flora was in abundance. There were many flowers among numerous types of plants. The image below shows a few of the colours. There were many others.

Some flowers of Cape Le Grand

On the way home I added to my collection of interesting signs.

2000 km east would be close to the Clare Valley wine district in SA

We stopped at Bunnings on the way home and were back in time for a 3:30 coffee. It was a thoroughly enjoyable day. The clothes on the line were dry.


Day 21 – Wednesday 18 June – Esperance Day 3

After two busy days today was declared a quiet catch-up day. Exercises. Car wash for removal of Norseman red dirt and salty sprays. Found two remaining murals. Visited an art gallery with "The Lester Prize" finalists on display.  "The Lester Prize" is the WA equivalent of the Archibald Prize. Click here if you want a sample of what we saw.

We bought two pies for lunch.

After lunch. Rest. Book reading. Revisit town clock to hear the 15-minute chimes up close. Walked on Esperance 'town' beach.

RSL - Light Horseman Mural

Town Beach [Beach 20, Walks 21]

Day 22 – Thursday 19 June – Esperance Day 4

I was so optimistic about the weather that I donned shorts for the first time this trip. Around 9:30 am we headed out to Stonehenge WA, which is apparently an exact replica on what Stonehenge UK looked like when it was first built. We are missing out on the winter solstice by two days - but that would be a day with constant forecast rain.

Stonehenge WA looking from east to west

Stonehenge WA inside looking towards the altar

On the way back to Esperance we admired a couple of metal sculptures.

Esperance version of the Loch Ness monster

We all have a dinosaur in our closet

Next stop was the rebuilt Esperance Jetty, rebuilt with the same curve and length of 400 metres.

Esperance Jetty

Not much of note happened after that, apart from moving back to jeans about 4pm.


Day 23 – Friday 20 June – Esperance to Hopetoun - 295 km

I thought that Shirley had a boyfriend in Ravensthorpe as (for the first time in 15 years of big winter trips) she was ready before me. Wow.

The 185 km to Ravensthorpe (pop. 2100) had four main features - excellent grazing land for prime sheep & cattle - crops - mines and bush. It is an interesting drive.

Rich grazing land between Esperance and Ravensthorpe

Our main feature of the day was the "Farm Gate Art Trail" which has 32 installations of metal art made from pre-loved farm materials. A few are included below.





Click here to see the entire collection of my "Farm Gate Art Trail" photos.

Art in Ravensthorpe



Above & Below - Both sides of the Ravensthorpe Silo Art


A mural in Ravensthorpe

The big lollypop in Ravensthorpe

We checked out the silo art at Ravensthorpe then chatted to the tourism guy in the "I". He suggested that Hopetoun was a better place to visit so we did - seeing more farm art along the way. We also saw a few parrots.

Australian Ringneck, or Twenty Eight, or Port Lincoln Parrot
(depending on where you find it)

A local 48 hour RV campsite was promoted so that was where we parked the caravan. The beach was 50 metres behind us.

Hopetoun Beach 50 metres behind the caravan [Beach 21, Walks 22]
We could walk to the 'local' about 400 metres along the beach.

We had lunch then went for a drive in to the "Fitzgerald River National Park". Like "Cape Le Grand NP" the beaches were magnificent, the cliffs rugged and the flowers pretty to look at.

Four Mile Beach in shadow [Beach 22, Walks 23]

Miley's Beach [Beach 23, Walks 24]

The view from Barrons lookout. Four Mile Beach in the middle foreground. Culham Inlet middle left. Hopetoun top right of the photo.

A collection of the flora that we saw in the National Park

It was late afternoon by the time we rested.


Day 24 – Saturday 21 June – Hopetoun to Bremer Bay - 292 km

Our day started with no firm plans in place except to check out a few more local beaches. The caravan was left at the RV park as we did our research. As the gale force winds persisted - and were freezing cold - the beach research did not take long.

Two Mile Beach [Beach 24, Walks 25]

Twelve Mile Beach [Beach 25, Walks 26]


Five Mile Beach [no rating as a beach]

After a cuppa we decided to up stumps and press on. We headed north for 46 km, then WSW for 114 km, then south for 55 km, then east for 41 km. After around 280 km we were within maybe 80 km from where we started.

The first two legs were fought against gale force winds, the latter two legs we floated along in front of the wind. We ended up at Bremer Bay. It was around 14 degrees, with wind providing a poor chill factor.

Along the way we saw more "Farm Gate Art". Click here to see the entire collection of my "Farm Gate Art Trail" photos.

Over the past week or so we have passed a lot of areas that have been subjected to serious fires - and mainly in National Park areas. The heat was so intense in many parts that many plants have died. The following photo gives an example.

Fire ravaged landscape on both sides of the road

Camp was established by 3pm in Bremer Bay (pop. 230), maybe 100 metres from Wellstead Estuary - not far from where it reaches the ocean.

After a coffee and a short rest we went exploring and were able to get a few more beach photos before the rain set in. That was it for the day.

The rain got heavier, the wind got stronger, we were more resolute to stay warm.

Dinner was lamb shank stew & rice.


Day 25 – Sunday 22 June – Bremer Bay 

It seemed to either rain or drip off the trees for the entire night, so we were in no rush to do anything. The BOM had recorded 34 mm of rain to 9 am - and 67 in the previous 7 days.

A rain shower whilst in the shower seemed heavier than the water coming out of the shower head - although that was excellent.

It was too wet for beach walks, but OK for a drive to just look. That happened and the sun shone through long enough to get a couple of photos of superb beaches.

Blossom Beach - Bremer Bay
[Beach 26, No walk]

Native Dog Beach - Bremer Bay
[Beach 27, No walk]

It was time for some culture so we headed to Peppermint Grove, the home of the original family who settled in Bremer Bay in the 1840's - the Wellstead family. Peppermint Grove still has some lovely old stone buildings. Much to our disappointment, the museum and cafe were closed.

Two buildings in Peppermint Grove 

Next it was time to check out the original Telegraph Station, which has been refurbished and is now a cafe and restaurant. The coffee and carrot cake were excellent. Local legend has it that the original telegraph operator was probably the first woman to operate as a  telegraph operator in Australia - and she was from the Wellstead family.

The refurbished Telegraph Station

After lunch we took a punt on a break in the weather and went beach hunting. We were not disappointed. A number of birds also posed for the camera.


Above - Bremer Beach from the beach
[Beach 28, Walks 27]
Below - The same beach from a lookout



Left - Endangered Pied Oystercatcher
Right - Sooty Oystercatcher
Above - Short Beach looking north
[Beach 29, Walks 28]
Below - Short Beach looking south




Pacific Gull with fish scraps supplied by a fisherman

We returned to base and still trusting our luck we went for a 2 km walk along the estuary and through a paperbark forest along the side of the road. Flora and fauna were caught on camera, as well as a rainbow.

Estuary leading to Bremer Beach, with rainbow

Grey Fantail - Front & rear

Some flora

As we settled in for the night the rain returned.


Day 26 – Monday 23 June – Bremer Bay to Albany 

After 55 mm of rain in two days we drifted out of Bremer Bay around 9am. We did not see Bremer Bay at its best, but we saw most of the best of Bremer Bay.

Decorum does not allow me to adequately describe the driving conditions. A strong south westerly buffeted us as a head/side wind. Rain came and went in bursts. The road was excellent so that was a positive.

We stopped for a break at a small place called Wellstead and smiled at the 'vermin' scoreboard. More foxes than rabbits?


Onwards we pressed through fire-ravaged country and magnificent scenery. It is a rich piece of country with (currently) plenty of water.

Fire-ravaged country

A typical country scene - through the rain

We detoured through Mount Barker to see the work of an artist - Sobrane - who we have previously seen in Broome and Tungamah (Victoria). She has bought an old bank and converted it into an art studio/gallery.

Sobrane studio/gallery

The bakery reportedly had the best pies within cooee so we stopped for a pie for lunch - and they were magnificent.

We checked into our caravan park and were greeted by our first kookaburra of the trip. It had a mate, but the mate was not keen on the camera.

Our first kookaburra of the trip

After a visit to the "I" we settled in for a very windy night. We had to stand two rubbish bins upright before they could be used - presumably toppled by the wind.


Summary

So far we have been on the road for 26 days and travelled 5237 km. The average of 200 km per day will gradually drop over the coming weeks.


Above - Route for the trip to date
Below - Route for the trip for Chapters 4 & 5


*** This chapter is now complete - tomorrow we explore Albany ***

Last updated at 8 pm on Monday 23 June 2025 (WA time)



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Wrap Up

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